Kenzo brand history. Kenzo Takada's fashion empire: destructive couture. Kenzo Takada: clothing business

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Kenzo

The history of this brand until the early 90s of the XX century is the biography of Kenzo Takada. He was born on February 27, 1939. in the godforsaken town of Himeji. He runs away from there to Tokyo against the will of his parents, works for a meager salary, earning a living, and studies. These years were the most difficult in his life, but Kenzo shows true samurai perseverance and endures. He enters the previously all-female school of fashion designers Bunka Gakuen, Kenzo becomes one of the first men who manages to achieve this. At the fashion design school he receives a good education, and upon graduation he becomes a clothing designer at a local supermarket, coming up with styles. At that time, he lived in a tiny house on the outskirts of Tokyo, which turned out to be to his advantage - the house was demolished for new development, and Kenzo received good compensation. But instead of buying a new home, he decides to spend the money on fulfilling his lifelong dream - in 1964. he's going to Paris!

In Paris, Kenzo Takada soaks up everything the fashion capital of the world has to offer and works tirelessly to create designs. Gradually, Kenzo finds himself in the fashion world. In 1970, he presented his first fashion show at the Vivien Gallery in Paris, and opened his first store, Jungle Jap. From this moment the history of the Kenzo brand begins.

It offers Europeans a new style inspired by Japanese culture. This style is clean, colorful and light, modern and romantic. There is no money for fabric, but Kenzo creatively makes dresses from leftovers. This is how Kenzo’s signature style, recognizable at first glance, appears: his always colorful creations evoke thoughts of travel.

Kenzo breaks all the canons of fashion; in winter collections he uses cotton, and sews pullovers and tops from knitwear. He is the Columbus of fashion, he is a pioneer, his creations are graceful, weightless, spacious and give great freedom of movement. He gives the kimono a Western European look, mixing East and West, innovation and tradition...... and a year later he presents his collections in Tokyo and New York. In 1972, he received the “fashion subverter” prize - Fashion Club Editor.

In the late 70s, his catwalk shows raised eyebrows. He showed one of the collections in the circus arena, and he himself appeared “to bow” on the back of an elephant.

In 1988, Kenzo released its first women's perfume. This is a floral fragrance from Kenzo, there are many notes in it, but two main notes sound separately and loudly: tangerine and orange. The perfume becomes the hit of the season, and the Kenzo Parfums brand is born. But the designer introduces new elements not only into the perfume, but also into the design of the bottles. In 1991, the first men's perfume appeared - Kenzo pour Homme.

In 1992 he creates the women's Parfum d'Ete in 1996. - fresh and sea-scented eau de toilette L’Eau par Kenzo, and in 1997 - Le Monde Est Beau. And even after Kenzo left in 1999, the House of Kenzo continues to create new fragrances that preserve the spirit of the designer: Flower by Kenzo (2000), Kenzo Amour, Kenzo Jungle, Kenzo Air...

In 1993, Kenzo sold the House to LVMH. Under the contract, the designer receives a couple of hundred million dollars annually and lives a comfortable life in the center of Paris in a Japanese house, invented and drawn by Kenzo himself in 1985. The house is converted from a former factory, its area is 1100 m2, there is a Japanese garden and a bathhouse, and also thousands of art objects that the owner brought from his travels. In such a house, it is not difficult to devote oneself entirely to creativity, and Kenzo founded several more brands - Takada by Kenzo, Kenzo Gokan Kobo and Yume. However, he still remains the owner of the Kenzo Takada brand.

In 2008, the Kenzo Parfums line celebrated its 20th anniversary since the creation of the brand; in honor of the anniversary, a limited edition collection of Vintage Edition perfumes was released.

The earliest fragrance from Kenzo was created in 1988. and the last one in 2013. The fragrances were created in collaboration with perfumers Alberto Morillas, Sophia Grojsman, Jacques Cavallier, Sophie Labbe, Christine Nagel, Olivier Polge, Olivier Cresp, Daphne Bugey, Annick Menardo, Jean Jacques, Marie Salamagne, Francoise Caron, Francis Kurkdjian, Maurice Roucel, Francois Demachy , Dominique Ropion, Antoine Lie, Aurelien Guichard, Benoit Lapouza, Christian Mathieu, Daniela Roche-Andrier, Ilias Ermenidis and Sonia Constant.

The history of one of the most exotic fashion houses in France begins in 1939, when in the Japanese province of Kanzaki, on the coast of the island of Honshu, under the shadow of the ancient White Heron Castle - Himeji, a boy named Kenzo Takada is born. The fifth child in the family of the owner of the tea house has suffered from dyslexia since childhood, and reading or coherently expressing his thoughts is a real problem for him.

Avoiding the company of other children, he spends a lot of time alone, looking at his older sister's magazines, and falls in love with fashion. However, the parents adhere to the traditional restrictions of Japanese society: in the Land of the Rising Sun, only women work in the clothing industry, and the established order cannot be violated.

In 1957, obeying the will of his father, Kenzo entered the university in Kobe to study Japanese literature. Just a year later, he can’t stand it and, despite his parent’s anger, he quits his studies and moves to Tokyo. There, gathering all his courage, he submits documents to the Institute of Design and Fashion (Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College). After passing all the entrance exams, Takada becomes the first man admitted to study.

After training, the young designer is engaged in window dressing in a large department store, then moves to a fashion magazine. But he dreams of Paris... An old university professor once said that Kenzo’s place is in the most fashionable city in the world, the liberated and open to everything new capital of France. There is not enough money for a ticket, and the parents refuse financial assistance to their son, who entered against their will.

But fate is on Kenzo's side. In 1964, the Japanese government begins preparations for the Tokyo Olympic Games and demolishes housing that interferes with construction. The list also includes the house where Takada lives. After receiving compensation of 350,000 yen, he buys a ship ticket to Marseille. In January 1965, a Cambodian cargo ship, after a month's voyage, enters France's largest port with only one passenger on board, Kenzo Takada.

Finding himself in a foreign country, without knowledge of French or money, he is forced to turn to his mother for help. And again he is refused. In reality, life in Paris turns out to be far from what he imagined in his imagination. Without losing heart, Kenzo takes on everything: cutting hair and walking dogs, working part-time as a painter and freelance designer for a publishing house. And he doesn't realize that his poverty and loneliness are a blessing in disguise.

In his free time he creates for himself, but the only available material is the cheapest leftover fabrics. Having nothing else, he boldly mixes different textures and colors, Parisian inspiration and Japanese traditions, and gradually forms his own and unique style. Kenzo style.

The Japanese influence is unmistakably visible in each model. “These are all memories of my mother. I was captivated by her energy and the incredible grace of her kimono.” In the early seventies in Japan there were two types of kimonos: simple and strict everyday ones and colorful festive ones, covered with magical patterns. It is the latter that particularly inspires the newly minted French-Japanese designer.

By the end of 1967, in Kenzo's tiny rented room, all the space is occupied by sketches and, having gathered his courage, he goes to the fashion house of Louis Féraud in search of work. There are no vacancies, but he still sells a few drawings. Inspired by this small success, Takada sends sketches to all fashion magazines, and almost ten of them are accepted by ELLE. So, gradually, step by step, the yesterday unknown Japanese man has his first clients, captivated by the color and unusual energy of his models. “It’s a crazy time: work during the day and endless parties at night.”

In February 1970, Kenzo decides to open his own store. This is just a small abandoned room in the Vivienne gallery, but for him it is his favorite child, his life. He does the renovations himself (here his skills as a painter came in handy) and even paints his favorite painting by Henri Rousseau, “The Dream,” on the walls, ceiling and steps. The Japanese Jungle store opened its doors in April 1970.

The debut show takes place in August. Despite the fact that everything is as simple as possible and the models parade in a small studio, the editor-in-chief of the French ELLE, the largest fashion publication, is among the twenty guests. Unique, full of life and color, the outfits make an impression, and the very same “Japanese Jungle” appears on the cover of the November issue.

In the early 70s, high-end fashion designers came under the influence of anti-traditional ideas and new values. Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel, who dominate the bon chic bon genre and produce elegant but boring “lady clothes”, fall into disgrace. Miniskirts and bell-bottoms are gaining popularity among the population. Takada, with its enchanting colors, rich floral patterns and comfortable silhouettes, forms a new paradigm for Parisian fashion.

The time of ready-to-wear begins, and ready-to-wear clothing, which mixed the flavor of the unknown country of geishas and samurai with the principles of Western fashion, turned out to be like a revolution. The brand received the official name Kenzo, and over the next decade its tremendous success was reminiscent of a meteorite explosion.

Kenzo plays with the palette perfectly. Rich green, bright purple, blood red, sunny yellow appear together, but do not look vulgar or provocative. And his favorite flowers perfectly help to express purity, passion, and character. This skill is not available to everyone.

Kenzo becomes a pioneer in the design of oversized clothing, managing to create an aesthetic space between the body and the fabric. The silhouettes are reminiscent of the same kimono: straight lines, lack of arrows, darts and zippers. At a time when the public was tired of overly sexy clothing, his work set new standards for 70s fashion: volume, plasticity and layering.

In 1977, the moment of real triumph came for Takada. He shows his new collection in the notorious New York club Studio 54. To the disco performance of the magnificent Grace Jones, models, including the famous Jerry Hall, take to the impromptu catwalk. For the late 70s this is a real challenge! No one had ever held a fashion show in a nightclub, and the American public was won over by the creative and daring Japanese.

Thinking about creating a harmonious image, in 1978 Takada began working on a fragrance. After two years of experimentation, the oriental, spicy, extraordinary perfume King Kong appears as a continuation of his favorite theme “Japanese Jungle”. The bright notes of banana and mint are stunning and fully complement the whimsical concept of the brand. After several years of success, perfumes disappear from the shelves. And in 1988, as the official fragrance of the brand, the less exotic, but still attractive floral-fruity Ca sent beau was introduced to the world. By the way, the line of fragrances from Kenzo is still “exploding” - .

In 1983, Takada launched his first men's collection, Around the World in 80 Days. The same message, energy and even flowers, but in a different interpretation. The Japanese living in Paris is inspired by cultures outside the traditional West, and in his works one can recognize elements of folk costumes from different countries and continents: Scandinavian patterns, Romanian peasant skirts, Portuguese purses, North African tunics, Peruvian ponchos.

In the 90s, the brand remained youth-oriented and extremely popular. Imperceptibly, the excess volume disappears, and it is replaced by mini-dresses and tops. But even following fashion trends, Takada does not change himself and remains the same as twenty years ago, when he only dreamed of conquering the fashionable Olympus - open, filled with joy, freedom and individuality.

Fun, poetic and relaxed, Kenzo creates his extraordinary collections from season to season. What is approved by leading stylists and critics goes on sale, and the most creative works are archived. The most popular motifs - plants, animals and water - take on a bizarre form in the master's interpretation.

Not only do the outfits contrast with everything that came before, but their presentation is strikingly different from the traditional one. He organizes a show at the circus, riding out to the public on an elephant, throwing up extraordinary tents in Bordeaux, covering a square in Paris with fabrics. And in 1994, in honor of the first day of summer, the Pont Neuf Bridge was lined with ten thousand colorful begonias. According to the designer’s idea, the floral “yarn” is intended to bring joy and smiles. The pleasantly shocked townspeople appreciated the gift and smiled happily all three days while the installation existed.

In 1993, the brand was purchased by the multinational luxury goods conglomerate LVMH Group. From this moment on, Takada resembles a general who lost the battle. Twice a year he laboriously creates collections, like the mythical Sisyphus, doing useless, endless work. He is interested in ceramics, drawing, playing sports - in a word, he behaves like a pensioner.

On Christmas Eve 1999, Kenzo Takada officially announced his retirement and left for Japan. Another dream - to engage in art - is beginning to come true. Having abandoned everything, he begins to write, admiring the paintings of Matisse, Gauguin and Rousseau, takes piano lessons, studies architecture and travels.

In 2000, the Flower by Kenzo fragrance was released, which became the flagship. The symbol of the fragrance is a bright poppy. Next is the Kenzoki cosmetic line, which is popular. It is these products that have become the main source of income for the company for a long time.

In 2003, Italian Antonio Marras took over as creative designer. Marras begins by carefully studying all the archives of the house. He explains it this way: “When I joined Kenzo, Takada had already left the company for almost ten years. It is necessary to fill the gaps, bring back the brand values, but at the same time give it new life. This is a special house with unique DNA and I believe I should continue its history rather than erase it.” Marras brings European history, religion and Italian heritage to Kenzo's Japanese aesthetic.

Kenzo is a French brand with Japanese soul and origin. Not just a brand, but a whole philosophy that includes all the best from two polar cultures: French chic, sophistication and the Japanese oriental flair of freedom and simplicity.

After all, agree, among all brands, Kenzo stands out. You will recognize it by its simple, laconic, loose silhouettes, but bright, memorable prints, by its restrained shapes, but rich textures. Kenzo is “carried” by mysterious, creative, free and deep natures.

Kenzo Takada - the name, soul and philosophy of the brand

Kenzo Takada

So, the one with whom the brand itself is actually associated is Kenzo Takada. French designer of Japanese origin who “made” Kenzo. While studying at the Tokyo fashion design school Bunka Gakuen, Takada dreamed of Paris. And he got there by luck (his house was being demolished, Kenzo received financial compensation and went to conquer France with this money) in 1965.

The designer lived for five years in a gray, cold city, experiencing all the hardships of poverty and hunger. Therefore, most of all he wanted to bring some color to this cold Parisian world. And I worked on it.

Takada's idea was that he was the first to introduce elements of the national costume of his native Japan into Western fashion.

In his first collection, the designer used colorful fabrics purchased at the Saint-Pierre market: floral patterns, stripes, checks - the incongruous combination was perfect. And the French public of the 70s, accustomed to gray and blue tones, really liked it. And the silhouettes in the form of Japanese kimonos excited me even more.

"The body needs space. Both physically and spiritually", - this is exactly what Kenzo Takada’s philosophy sounds like.


He was also one of the first Japanese couturiers who gave Europe the fashion for loose, voluminous and somewhat even abstract clothing. Moreover, it turned out to be free of any accessories and even recesses that emphasize the figure - freedom and lightness in everything. Such clothes turned out to be very necessary for the West, which was tired of provocatively close sexuality and glamor.

Modern Kenzo

Every year Takada created 5 collections, and all of them blew up the fashion world. At the same time, not once during his career was he involved in public scandals and never succumbed to trends and trends - he always expressed only his own views in fashion. Therefore, it is impossible to repeat it to this day.

Kenzo worked for 30 successful years, and in 1999, after receiving the American Peace Prize, the designer left the fashion world.

» is a world-famous and adored French fashion brand that produces clothing, perfume and accessories. Since its founding, it has undergone many ups and downs. Read more about all this in our article!

The history of the creation of the Kenzo brand

A designer named Kenzo Takada presented his very first clothing collection in Paris in the 1970s with the intriguing title “Destruction of Haute Couture.” The clothes, striking in their chic and luxury, were, to the surprise of many, made from relatively cheap material that the creator purchased on the market. Having received many flattering comments regarding the stunning line of items, the fashion designer decides to open his own boutique in the heart of Paris - Jungle Jap Galerie Vivienne. Since it occupied a central position, a large number of people visited it daily and admired the works of design art they saw. Takada skillfully combined national elements with the Parisian elegance inherent in that time. In the same year, in such a short period of time, noticed by the editor-in-chief of Elle magazine, one of the models from the Kenzo collection appears on the cover of this popular magazine. A year later, clothing lines are sent to shows in the monster cities of World fashion - New York and Tokyo. In 1972, the creator received real recognition from the luminaries of this business, namely the award of the legendary “Fashion Club Editor”. Four years later, clothes and accessories begin to come out of the Fashion House with the name “Kenzo”, which is undoubtedly a great success. And during the same period of time, another boutique opens, since the more successful a brand becomes, the more space it needs in the global space. One of the couturier's cult inventions is the long jacket with a loose tailoring, which went down in history as a thing that every true fashionista wore in the 1980s. In the same chronological period, the label works painstakingly, presenting more than five shows a year in the most prestigious places in Paris. In 1983, the long-awaited line of men's clothing was finally born, featuring interestingly styled striped trousers and jackets with floral motifs. After 4 years, clothes for children also appear, which, keeping up with models for adults, are in demand. To attract even more buyers, a perfume collection was launched in 1988, which everyone liked, without exception.

Kenzo brand today

At the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries, in 1999, the company was left by its founder, Kenzo Takada, who replaced himself with a French successor named Gilles Rosier and the Danish Roy Kroeberg. After some time, the new managers sign a contract for the production and production of silver jewelry and watches. In 2003, the previous directors were replaced by Antonio Marasa, on the initiative of the LVMH company, which in turn produces interior items under the Kenzo brand. Maras successfully presents the 2004-2005 clothing collection, which no one in the brand had ever presented before. Critics appreciated the designer's creativity and even compared him with the great founder of the brand, noting that the new creative director successfully managed to preserve the flavor of the brand. In 2005, not wanting to continue expanding, Kenzo signed an agreement to create branded tableware, and a year later such pleasant women's little things as tights and underwear were released. Unexpectedly for many, in 2008, its own furniture entered the market on behalf of the label! The success with which customers greeted her is incomparable! Developing rapidly, a year later Kenzo created the first unisex category in its collection with the name “Kenzo Unidentified Fragrance Object”, which everyone, without exception, appreciated. Today, the post of directors is occupied by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, but, unfortunately, according to experts, with their arrival at the company, the products have lost their former grace and chic. One of the brand’s latest striking works is collaboration with the Vans shoe brand. Sneakers with a geometric pattern went on sale, and subsequently they became bestsellers.

About the creator of the brand Kenzo

Kenzo Takada is the founder of the French brand of the same name, who popularized Japanese ethnic motifs in Western clothing models. Born in 1939, on the twenty-seventh of February, in a small town in the outback of Japan - the province of Hyogo. This place had a very small population and practically no funding came from the state. As the youngest child in a large family, Takada often suffered hardships. The family's only source of income was tea production. Since childhood, Kenzo drew and thought out models of women's clothing, imagining how he would dress his sisters in beautiful outfits, making them forget about the poverty in which they were. After graduating from school, the guy leaves his native village and goes to Tokyo. In order to somehow cover the costs of living in the metropolis, he gets a job as a painter’s assistant. He received pennies for a busy work schedule, but still worked tirelessly to fulfill his dream of becoming a fashion designer and becoming the iconic figure we know today!

Kenzo Takada is a world-famous designer who first proposed the idea of ​​​​using elements of national costume in Western countries. Popularized

Kenzo Takada: biography

The future fashion designer was born on February 27, 1939 in the province of Hyogo (Japan). The village in which he grew up was very small and poor. His parents had five children, with Kenzo Takada being the youngest child. The family owned a tea house. This is how she earned her living.

While still a child, the fashion designer saw beautiful models of women's clothing in a famous fashion magazine. They amazed him so much that young Takada tried to redraw them. From then on, he himself began to come up with clothing models and draw sketches. It all started with outfits for paper dolls.

After graduating from school, Takada, like every young man, had to determine his future destiny. He asked his parents to allow him to study at a school for fashion designers. But they decided that their son was making the wrong choice, and sent him to university to study English literature.

However, several months were enough for the future fashion designer to finally become convinced that he was making the wrong decision. Kenzo Takada left the university and went to Tokyo. Living independently in a foreign city and getting an education required a lot of money, so the guy got a job as a painter’s assistant. Takada spent his time washing brushes and priming surfaces for seven dollars. I had to work hard to get the profession of my dreams.

Japanese school of fashion designers

Tokyo became the starting point for a talented guy on the path to fulfilling his dream. Kenzo Takada entered a fashion design school and was the only boy there. Previously, only girls studied at this educational institution.

After successfully graduating from school, the fashion designer gets the opportunity to create clothes for the Sanai fashion store. He also works part-time as a fashion model for a local magazine.

Kenzo Takada dreams of going to Paris. He heard a lot about Parisian fashion from his mentor, who had visited this city more than once. Fashion collections, social events and lifestyle incredibly inspired the young fashion designer to travel.

But in order to go to France, you needed a lot of money. And here the designer was lucky again. The house in which he lived was being demolished, so Takada was paid good compensation. Instead of buying a new home with this money, he spent it on a ticket to Paris.

Long awaited trip to Paris

Kenzo Takada, having arrived in France, did not know the local language, had no money and no job. However, I felt very happy at the same time. The designer rented a small room and went to all the fashion shows of Chanel, Dior and Cardin. But after each show it became sadder and sadder. There was practically no hope for a successful future. He understood that the fashion world was very far from him. Most likely he will just stay

And in order to somehow begin to fulfill his desires, Kenzo decided to surprise the audience. Come up with something that no one has seen before. Takada received new inspiration after attending Courrèges' show. On it he saw, but not the same as usual. It was close to real, everyday life.

The fashion designer began to persistently study all the technologies for working with unfamiliar materials and colors. At the same time, he creates fashion collections for several stores simultaneously. He saved almost all the money to open his own company, which was supposed to bring him incredible success.

The first models created created a sensation throughout the fashion world. Kenzo used checks, stripes, and animal prints, combining all the details in the most unusual way.

Your own brand

In 1975, Kenzo Takada, whose photo you can see in this article, opens his first boutique. But he doesn’t do it on his own. His assistant was Atsuko Kondo, a girl who studied with him at the fashion design school. In his store, he launched an unusual Japanese-style collection using cotton fabrics.

Kenzo created models that were very similar to This made Parisian fashion designers laugh very much. The style that Kenzo proposed was quite unusual. After all, people are used to wearing tight-fitting clothes, not baggy sweaters.

Kenzo's style had its own philosophy. It was that the body needs space not only in the physical sense, but also in the spiritual sense. The purpose of his clothing was to hide the human body from prying eyes.

Every year the designer created five new collections, and all of them amazed the world of modern fashion. The designer did not use zippers, buttons or other fasteners in his outfits.

Glory

In the late seventies, the designer's store became the most popular place in Paris. Every resident of France knew who Kenzo Takada was. And in the eighties, he was able to captivate the entire audience by showing off his outfits. At the same time, he put on great shows. The fashion designer loved real fun, so he always found a place for it.

In 1983, Kenzo Takada (biography briefly describes this fact) decided to launch a men's clothing line. The designer did not want to change his traditions, so the outfits for the stronger sex were also bright. The designer used rich colors and decorated clothes with drawings and patterns. Kenzo was the first to propose a combination of black trousers with white stripes with a formal jacket decorated with colorful flowers.

About the first fragrances

The Kenzo company released its first fragrance in 1987. It was a sweet and exotic scent that held Japanese secrets. It became very popular among women and made the designer even more famous.

In the early nineties, the first men's perfume appeared, which was called Pour home. This scent is very popular even today. Of course, over so many years both the packaging and the components of the perfume have changed, but the idea has remained the same.

Multicultural fashion

Kenzo Takada draws his inspiration from different cultures. Traveling a lot around the world, he finds interesting elements of clothing from different peoples. Then he combines them, modernizes them and comes up with new styles and images. His work has the largest number of stylistic directions.

Throughout his long and fruitful career, Kenzo has never been involved in scandals. Even in the nineties, when competition was rapidly gaining momentum, the fashion designer strictly adhered to his traditions and did not use scandals to attract attention. Takada had his own philosophy of life, which he was able to reflect in his clothes. In his opinion, you need to live in harmony with nature and enjoy the smallest little things in life.

New steps

In 1993, the Kenzo brand was at the peak of its popularity. It was at this time that she joined the LVMH holding. This company owns the most famous French fashion brands. Now “Kenzo” is here too. Takada was very happy about this, because he was able to completely immerse himself in the creative process. Now you don’t need to worry about the commercial side of your business. The holding brings the fashion designer a very good and regular income. However, this does not stop him. Kenzo continues to create and strives for new achievements.

The fashion designer, deep down, always missed his homeland - Japan. That’s why I recreated it in a smaller copy right in the heart of Paris. He built a small tea house, similar to the one his father had, and also a small pond with goldfish.

In 1999, Kenzo decided to leave the fashion world, arguing that he needed to rethink his life, rest and gain strength.

In 2002, he returned and delighted the world with new collections. Worked with many brands. I created some of them myself. In addition, the designer began to create stylish interior items. So we can say with confidence that such a talented person was able to cope with his life’s calling.

Kenzo Takada (the fashion designer's personal life remains secret) became a Knight of the French Order of Letters and Arts. He received this award in 1984. So we can assume that, albeit not completely, he fulfilled his parents’ dream. After all, the order was for literature.