The word “Kölsch” has three meanings: this is the German name for a resident of the city of Cologne, the Cologne dialect of the German language in which this resident speaks, as well as the type of beer that is drunk in Cologne. As if there is even a saying: “Kölsch is the only language you can drink.”
I have tried Kölsch beer before, but this time I managed to do it more thoroughly and methodically. I’m currently working on a new version of my big book about beer, which the Moscow publishing house BBPG plans to release again at the end of the year. Therefore, as an author, I have to constantly work, literally not sparing my belly, using every opportunity to enrich my beer experience.
It should be noted that Kölsch is a unique beer that is not brewed anywhere (or rather, should not be brewed) except in Cologne. After all, Kölsch is a local specialty, as protected a landmark as cognac and champagne in certain areas of France. And although foreign brewers in some countries brew their own versions of Kölsch, if you want to know the real taste of Kölsch beer, you will have to go to Cologne. Everything else is nonsense.
And even in Cologne, not just anyone brews Kölsch, but only brewers who united in their guild in 1986 and signed a special Convention establishing the rules for the production and consumption of this drink. For example, the barley for this beer comes only from the Lower Rhine or the shores of Lake Constance. In 1997, this convention was approved by the European Union and protected the rights to the name Kölsch. Here are all 23 brands of Kölsch beer, which is brewed in Cologne in accordance with the mentioned Convention. Only this beer has the right to be called Kölsch.
The Kölsch variety is a light, clear top-fermented beer (Kölsch fermentation takes place at temperatures of +13-21 °C) with a distinct hop bitterness and a strength of about 4.8 vol.%, which is brewed from wort with a density of 11.3%. It is said that Kölsch is brewed in accordance with the classic rules of the Bavarian “Commandment of Purity” (Reinheitsgebot) of 1516, although in Cologne they believe that they began to prescribe quality rules to brewers much earlier than they were done in Bavaria. I suspect that the Bavarians are unlikely to agree with this, and they are unlikely to be delighted with this type of beer. But Cologne residents have their own pride and, according to my observations, they drink almost exclusively Kölsch beer, although it is not a problem to find other types of beer in Cologne.
There is a certain culture of drinking Kölsch beer. Traditionally, this type of beer is rarely produced in bottles, but is drunk mainly in beer houses on draft Kölsch. For this reason, Kölsch is a particularly socializing drink that promotes communication, since it is usually not drunk at home alone in front of the TV, but only in the company of friends, comrades and colleagues. Kölsch is very conducive to collective pastime and communication.
This beer is traditionally drunk from narrow, thin-walled cylindrical glasses with a capacity of 0.2 liters, called Kölner Stange. It is believed that if this beer is poured into a larger glass, the foam quickly settles and the beer loses its attractive appearance and taste. By the way, Kölsch is drunk quite warm, at a temperature not lower than 8°C, since all ales (top-fermented beer) reveal their taste better at a higher temperature than lagers.
When you drink Kölsch in a restaurant, the waiter immediately brings you a new glass as soon as your previous one is empty. And on the coaster, the waiter marks the number of glasses drunk with a pencil and chopsticks. This is necessary for the final calculation. If you no longer want beer, you need to place the coaster on top of your glass, closing it.
I was surprised to discover that in some establishments Kölsch is served in glasses with a capacity of 0.3 liters or even larger. It is known that in the most sophisticated and traditional places, Kölsch is served in very small glasses with a capacity of 0.1 liters (German: Stößchen). Some may think that beer should not be drunk in such ridiculous doses. However, according to my observations, small glasses should not be misleading: this does not at all prevent the Cologne public from drinking a decent amount of beer and being quite tipsy. Moreover, many people walk around the center of Cologne in the evenings, popping into different beer halls one by one to take another glass. Beer houses are never empty; it is always noisy and fun.
Waiters scurry back and forth, whose familiarity, sometimes bordering on rudeness, has become the talk of the town. This is the signature style of waiters in Cologne, don't be surprised.
Women are very rare among the waiters serving Kölsch. But, as you can see, they do occur. And not rude at all.
Waiters carry cups of Kölsch in special trays, reminiscent of the 10-12 charge drum of a revolver. This tray is called Kranz Kölsch.
And these tanned guys are pouring Kölsch from a barrel in the Peters Brauhaus beer hall, probably Afro-Cologneites...
Real Cologne residents usually don’t sit at tables in beer halls. One can almost unmistakably say that tourists and visitors are sitting at the tables, or that some kind of corporate party has gathered here.
And real Cologne residents usually drink their Kölsch standing up, without snacking on anything. So as not to sit for a long time, but drink a glass and go to the next pub. Therefore, in any beer hall for true Cologne residents there is standing room not far from the entrance.
There are also cozy nests for couples in pubs.
Kölsch is a regional specialty beer produced only in the city of Cologne. This is a clear beer with a bright yellow color and a pronounced hop flavor. This beer is slightly less bitter than regular German lager. Kölsch is a top-fermented beer at a relative temperature of 13 – 21 degrees. This fermentation method makes Kölsch similar to other beers from north-central Europe, such as (Altbiers) which is brewed in northern Germany and Holland. What Kölsch is is strictly defined by a special convention (Kölsch-Konvention). In practice, most brands do not follow it exactly, but adhere to some average value close to the standard. 
Kölsch is served at a temperature of 10 degrees, usually in special elongated cylindrical glasses with a volume of 0.2 liters. These glasses are sometimes called strange glasses. Recently, many bars have replaced them with larger ones with a volume of 0.3 and even 0.4 liters. Some original drink this beer from a 0.1 liter container (this is not a typo, 100 milliliters). Since 1936, Kölsch has also been sold in bottles.
The name Kölsch officially began to be used in 1918 to describe a type of beer that had been brewed since 1906 at the Sünner brewery. In the first half of the 20th century, this beer did not find popularity, since bottom-fermented varieties were popular in Germany. After the Second World War, out of forty breweries in Cologne, only two remained. In 1946, many breweries were restored. Throughout the 40s and 50s, Kölsch was still not a competitor to bottom-fermented varieties. But since 1960, this variety has become very popular and occupied almost the entire beer market in Cologne. From 1960 to 1980, production increased from 500,000 hectoliters to 3,700,000. But due to the decline in demand and rising prices, many changed their preferences, which led to a serious decline in production. In 2005, 2,400,000 hectoliters of Kölsch beer were brewed. 
Beer is produced in forty breweries in Cologne. The largest are Früh, Erzquell, Gaffel, Reissdorf and Kölner Verbund. Manufacturers are currently consolidating. Kölsch is the only beer that is prohibited from being produced outside the Cologne region. In accordance with special agreements, this beer is not produced in any country of the European Union, as well as in some other countries. But some small breweries, for example in the USA, still brew Kölsch. Although these varieties are labeled as Kölsch, there is no guarantee that they correspond to the Kölsch style, and they may have a different color, smell and taste.
Kölsch's main competitor has always been, whose production is concentrated around Düsseldorf. The difference between the two brands is significant. Altbier ferments at higher temperatures, uses darker malt, harder water, and more bitter hops to produce a stronger, drier-tasting beer. The competition between the two cities, Cologne and Düsseldorf, is humorous and limited to beer preferences. But in the past there has been bloodshed. A very interesting fact: women prefer Kölsch beer to other brands produced in Germany. This variety is more popular among women than among men. Karl Marx once remarked that a revolution in Cologne is impossible as long as the leaders go to the same pubs as the workers.
If you drink beer in Cologne, it will most likely be Kölsch, and it is best to show willpower and not drink other types. Residents of Cologne do this extremely rarely.
Options: OG: 1.044 - 1.050 | FG: 1.007 - 1.011 | ABV: 4.4 - 5.2% | IBUs: 18 - 30 | SRM: 3.5 - 5| CO2: 2.4 - 3.1 vol
General impression: A clean, crisp beer with a delicate balance, usually with very subtle fruit and hop character. Muted maltiness throughout the sip leads to a pleasant, well-attenuated and refreshing finish. This beer is characterized by freshness, as its delicate character can quickly fade with age. Characterized by brilliant transparency.
Aroma: Low to very low malt aroma with a grainy sweet character. This is acceptable, but there is not always a pleasant subtle fruity aroma (apple, cherry or pear) as a result of fermentation. A weak hop aroma (floral, spicy or herbal) is optional and is not a stylistic inconsistency. Some yeast strains may produce a slightly winey or sulfurous character (optional, not an error). Overall the aromatic intensity is quite low, but balanced, clean and fresh.
Appearance: Very light to light gold. Very clear (authentic commercial versions are filtered to a shine). A delicate foam head may not be very durable.
Taste: Smooth, rounded, delicate flavor balance between soft but fermented malt, almost imperceptible fruity sweetness from fermentation and medium-low to medium bitterness, with a delicate dryness and slight freshness in the finish (but without a harsh finish). The malt tends toward grainy sweetness, perhaps with a very slight bready or honeyed quality. Hop flavor ranges from low to moderately high, medium-low to medium intensity, and has a floral, spicy, or herbaceous character. There may be, but is not necessarily, a malty-sweet sensation at first. No noticeable residual sweetness. There may be a slightly vinous, mineral or sulfur accent that emphasizes dryness and flavor balance. A slight wheat taste is sometimes present and is not a mistake. Anyway, very clean.
Mouthfeel: Medium-light to medium body (most examples are medium-light). Carbonation is medium to medium-high. Round, generally crisp and well fermented.
Comments: In Germany it is described as a top-fermented and cold-matured beer. Each brewery in Cologne brews a different character of beer, and each interprets the Kölsch Convention slightly differently. Drier versions may taste hoppier or more bitter than the IBU suggests. Due to its delicate flavor profile, Kölsch has a relatively short shelf life; older or imported samples may clearly show some oxidation defects. In Cologne it is served in tall, narrow 200 ml glasses called Stange- "rod".
Story: In Cologne, top-fermentation has been used since the Middle Ages, but the beer known as Kölsch developed in the late 19th century as a competitor to bottom-fermented pale lagers. Kölsch is a geographical name protected by the Kölsch Convention ( Kölsch Convention, 1986), and can only be produced by about 20 breweries in and around Cologne. By convention, Kölsch is simply defined as a light, well-fermented, clear, top-fermented beer of normal strength with a hop accent - Vollbier.
Characteristic Ingredients: Traditional German hops (Hallertau, Tettnang, Spalt or Hersbrucker), German pale malt or pils. Pure ale yeast with good fermentability. Up to 20% wheat malt can be used, but it is quite rare in authentic versions. Current commercial practice is warm fermentation, short cold maturation and consumption fresh.
Style Comparison: It is easy for an untrained taster to confuse Kölsch with cream-elem or light pilzom.
Commercial examples: Fruh Kolsch, Gaffel Kolsch, Muhlen Kolsch, Reissdorf Kolsch, Sion Kolsch, Sunner Kolsch
List of pubs, restaurants and bars in the Old Town. Map included.
Beer houses
A beautiful orange house on the corner of Heumarkt. The interior is decorated with carved wood and stained glass. Only Pfaffen Kölsch and local specialties are served.
Address: Heumarkt, 62.
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00. Closed on Mondays. Website: max-paeffgen.de.
Friendly atmosphere. A traditional German beer hall serving excellent food, a variety of schnapps and, of course, Kölsch. Beautiful stained glass on the ceiling. Credit cards are not accepted.
Address: Mühlengasse 1. (peters-brauhaus.de)
Opening hours: daily 11:30-00:30. Website: peters-brauhaus.de.
One of the few houses in Cologne that managed to survive the bombing. The building was built in 1568. Small windows and wooden panels on the walls create a cozy feeling. Good meat, excellent mushrooms. And of course, the obligatory gold Kölsch.
Address: Heumarkt, 77.
Opening hours: 10:00-00:30. Website: haus-zims.de.
There are a lot of people here from morning until late. Bar with vaulted ceilings, traditional beer garden, restaurant on the ground floor. Tables outside. The restaurant accepts credit cards.
Address: Am Hof, 12-18.
Opening hours: Brauhaus 8:00-24:00, restaurant 11:30-24:00. Website: frueh.de.
Haxenhaus zum Rheingarten
Wonderful cafe, ideal place for tourists. Waiters in medieval costumes, excellent local cuisine. Beer flows like a river.
Address: Frankenwerft 19.
Opening hours: Sun-Thu 11:30-1:00; Fri-Sat 11:30-3:00. Website: .
Restaurants
Da Pino
Good Italian restaurant, reasonable prices, delicious pizza, good appetizers, excellent meat and fish dishes. There are tables in a cozy, quiet area.
Address: Salzgasse, 4.
Opening hours: daily 11:00-1:00. Website: dapino-koeln.de.
Mai-Thai
Sit at a table outside or go into a restaurant and order traditional Thai food. The hall is decorated with silk and wood panels. Exotic plants are everywhere.
Address: Heumarkt, 71.
Opening hours: daily 12:00-1:00. Website: maithai-koeln.de.
Das Kleine Stapelhausen
Traditional decoration, view of the Rhine, excellent German cuisine, good wine list. Great place for lunch or dinner.
Address: Fischmarkt, 1-3.
Opening hours: daily 12:00-23:30. Website: kleines-stapelhaeuschen.de.
Le Merou
Open from breakfast until late. The main specialization is seafood. Great lobsters and oysters. Excellent wine list.
Address: Dom Hotel, Domkloster, 2a.
Opening hours: daily 6:30-23:00.
Bars
Bier Museum
It's not at all as boring as the name might suggest. This is a very lively bar with upbeat music. Unlike other bars in Cologne, they offer 18 types of beer, including Guinness.
Address: Buttermarkt, 39.
Opening hours: daily 14:00-3:00. Website: .
Barney Valley's Irish Pub
Small bar decorated in Irish style. Loud music, a lot of people, whiskey and, of course, Kölsch.
Address: Kleine Budengasse, 7-9.
Opening hours: daily 11:00-2:00. Website: barneyvallelys.com.
The Corkonian
A cozy bar full of tourists serving Guinness. Good music, big screen showing football matches.
Address: Alter Markt, 51.
Opening hours: Sun-Thu 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00. Website: thecorkonian.com.
Papa Joe's Jazzlokal
Relax with a glass of Kölsch in the cozy bar. Live jazz every day.
Address: Buttermarkt, 37.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 20:00-3:00; Sun 16:00-3:00. Website: papajoes.de.
Sonderbar
One of the few trendy bars in the Old Town. There are regular DJs, stylish lighting, and a huge mirror ball.
Address: Lintgasse 28.
Opening hours: 19:00-3:00 Fri-Sat. Website: sonderbar-koeln.de.
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Where Bill Clinton missed out in his time. But, since no bad advice would be given to the American president, having received a turn from the gate, he simply crossed the bridge to the left bank, to the Heumarkt square, where he settled down at the Zur Malzmühle brewery, having roasted Rhine-style marinated beef and local Kölsch - "Mühlen". I’ll tell you more about this brewery.
"Zur Malzmühle" translates as "At the malt mill". There has indeed been such a mill in Cologne since the 16th century, although historically it was located a little further from Heumarkt and stood on a stream, which has now been removed under the pavement.
The Malzmühle brewery on Heumarkt was founded in 1858. Several types of beer were brewed in it, including malt beer, which you can still try today. It has little alcohol - only 2 degrees, it is dark in color and sweet, very specific. But my favorite is Mühlen-Kölsch. It has a pronounced malty taste, and, as you can see from the photo, it is a rich golden hue.
Malzmühle is one of the few breweries that continues its much-needed activities in the center of Cologne, and not in the outskirts. In the front of the house there is a beer hall, and in the back is the brewery itself. The owners of the brewery are the fourth generation of the Schwartz family. During the Second World War, the building was destroyed, only this impressive façade survived.
After the war, the owners tried to restore the interiors in the spirit of a typical Cologne beer hall. Namely: white-scrubbed tables and simple chairs, heavily sash windows, giving the room an intimate twilight.
Guests enter the beer hall through an entourage “turntable”.
Malzmühl has two large halls. The walls, as expected, are made of dark wood panels.
There are lamps under the ceiling, creating a calm, even soporific atmosphere.
Panoramas of Cologne are hung on the walls, and pewter is placed on the panels. If you sit by an open window, you can observe the constant rustling of people and cars on the Heumarkt. But this is not for everybody.
In the back of the large hall there is a wooden staircase leading up to a balcony, where you can also sit. In addition, there is a smaller room on the first floor.
And of course, “Maltzmühl” has preserved its own “confessional”; here you can sometimes see the owners of the brewery behind the cash register.
And this is the second large hall. By the way, we couldn’t get into Malzmühle several times: due to the fact that there are only two halls, all the tables are quickly reserved, and in the evenings it’s always sold out. I haven’t seen anything like this in any pub yet: so that it’s impossible to find room for a couple of people.
“Malzmühle” is a favorite place for get-togethers not only for townspeople and tourists, but also for gatherings of carnivalists, so all the walls here are decorated with carnival orders. Konrad Adenauer also loved to be here - he knew a lot about good beer!
As is tradition, we tasted pork knuckle and blood sausage here (Cologne cuisine is not for people on a diet). Everything was very tasty, although we found it a little too salty. However, this is a clever move in any pub: to make guests order more beer.